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Eugenia Paulicelli
Position: Professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women’s Studies
Campus Affiliation: Queens College
Phone: 212-817-8171
Degrees/Diplomas: PhD University of Wisconsin at Madison
Research Interests: Fashion Studies and Theory; Fashion and Politics; Women and Gender Studies; Film and Screen Media; Italian Literature, Culture and Fashion (Early Modernity to the Present); New Technologies and the Mediation of Culture; The Work of Roland Barthes and Charles Sanders Peirce.

Tracks Taught in MALS: Fashion: History, Theory, Practice; New York Studies

Courses taught in MALS: Clothing Cultures in Early Modern Italy and England; The Fabric of Cultures; New York Fashion

Books:

The Fictions of Fashion in Early Modern Italy. From Sprezzatura to Satire, Ashgate: forthcoming

Italian Modernities. Fashion & Film from 1910 to the Digital Age, (Bloomsbury Academic, 2015)

1960. Un anno in Italia. Costume, Cinema, Moda e Cultura, Cesena: Il Ponte Vecchio, 2010 (co-ed. with Antonio Maraldi)

The Fabric of Cultures. Fashion, Identity, Globalization, London and New York: Routledge, 2008 (co-ed. with Hazel Clark)

Moda e Moderno. Dal Medioevo al Rinascimento (Fashion and Modernity from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance), Rome:            Meltemi, 2006 (ed.)

Fashion under Fascism. Beyond the Black Shirt, Oxford & New York: Berg, 2004

Parola e immagine. Sentieri della scrittura in Leonardo, Marino, Foscolo, Calvino, Florence: Edizioni Cadmo, 1996

Dimore (Poems), Ragusa: Libro Italiano, 1996

Lo spreco dei significanti: L’Eros, la morte, la scrittura, Bari: Adriatica, 1983 (Co-author with Augusto Ponzio and Mariagrazia      Tundo)

Journals (Guest editor and Co-editor)

WSQ (Women’s Studies Quarterly), special issue dedicated to Fashion, CUNY Feminist Press, May 2013: forthcoming (co-ed. with Elizabeth Wissinger)

Journal of Modern Italian Studies, special issue dedicated to Italian Fashion: Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (forthcoming in Spring 2014) (ed.)

Selected Articles:

“Cronaca di un amore: Fashion & Italian Cinema in Michelangelo Antonioni (1949-1955),” in Graziella Parati (ed.), New Perspectives in Italian  Cultural Studies, Vol. 2: The Arts and History, Madison: Farleigh Dickinson (2012), 107-130

“Veiling and Fashion in the Italian Cinquecento,” in Abito e Identita’, Cristina Giorcelli (ed.), Renzo e Rean Mazzone Editori: Palermo, Rome, 2013, (277- 298)

“Balla: Fashion and Design,” Catalogue on Italian Futurism, 1909-1944 (Exhibition, Guggenheim, 2014: forthcoming)

“Engendering Faust: The Veiled Lady in Nino Oxilia’s Rapsodia Satanica, 1915-1917,” in Marketa Ulhirova (ed.) Birds of Paradise, London, 2013, forthcoming

“Rome: Eternal City of Fashion and Film,” in Joseph Hancock, Toni Johnson-Woods, and Vicki Karaminas (eds.), Fashion in Popular Culture, Intellect, Bristol, UK (2013: forthcoming)

“Visual Texture & a Feast for the Senses: Italian Fashion in Film,” in Film, Fashion & Consumption, Pamela Church-Gibson (ed.), Intellect, London, forthcoming

“Moda e cinema durante il miracolo economico” (Fashion & cinema during the economic miracle), in Antonio Maraldi & Eugenia Paulicelli (eds.), 1960, un anno in Italia. Tra cultura e spettacolo, Cesena: Il Ponte Vecchio, 2010

“Fashion, Cultural Anxiety & Modernity in the Italian Baroque” in Romance Notes, Osvaldo Estrada (ed.), Special Issue “The Survival of Literature in the Age of Globalization,” on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the journal, 50: 1 (2010): 35-46

“Dal Boom alla rivolta: moda e cinema nei film di Michelangelo Antonioni (1960 -1969),” in Silvia Casilio & L. Guerrieri (eds.), Il ’68 diffuso: Contestazione, Linguaggi e Memorie in movimento. Un approccio pluridisciplinare. Bologna: CLEUB, 2010

“From the Sacred to the Secular: The Gendered Geography of Veils in Italian Cinquecento Fashion,” in Bella Mirabella (ed.), Ornamentalism: the Art of Renaissance Accessories. Ann Arbor:  University of Michigan Press, 2011, pp. 40-58

“Fashioning Rome: Cinema, Fashion, & the Media in the Postwar Years” in Annali d’Italianistica 28 (2010): 257-278, Cristina Mazzoni (ed.), special Issue dedicated to Capital City: Rome 1870-2001

“Fashion & Futurism: Performing Dress,” in Annali d’Italianistica 27 (2009): 187-207, Federico Luisetti & Luca Somigli (eds.), special Issue dedicated to Futurism

“Branding Italian Fashion under Fascism,” in Mario Lupano & Alessandra Vaccari (eds.), Catalogue of the Exhibition Modernism & Fashion in the 1930s, Rome, July 2009  (forthcoming)

“Notes from NYC: Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center of the City University of New York,” in bilingual journal of the University of Bologna, Rimini Campus Zone/Moda (forthcoming)

“La poetica e politica dello spazio nella scrittura di Clara Sereni,” in Athanor 11 (2008): 157-163, special issue on Umano troppo disumano, Augusto Ponzio & F. Leonardis, (eds.)

“Fashion, Identity, Globalization” and “Introduction,” in Amy Winter (ed.), The Fabric of Cultures, catalogue of the exhibition of the same name at The Godwin-Turnbach Museum, Queens College, 2008

“Framing the Self, Staging Identity: Clothing and Style in the Films of Michelangelo Antonioni (1950-1964),” in Eugenia Paulicelli & Hazel Clark (eds.), The Fabric of Cultures, London & New York: Routledge, 2008, pp. 53-72

“Mapping the World: The Political Geography of Dress in Cesare Vecellio’s Costume Books,” in The Italianist 28 (2008): 24-53

“Dress, Gender and Identity,” in J. Warren (ed.), Feminism and Multiculturalism, Newcastle, UK: Cambridge Scholar Press, 2007, pp. 45-55

“Introduzione” e “Geografia del vestire nei libri di costume di Cesare Vecellio,” in Eugenia Paulicelli (ed.), Moda e Moderno. Dal Medioevo al Rinascimento, Rome: Meltemi, 2006, pp. 7-15 & 129-153

“The Rhetoric and Politics of Appearance in the Italian Cinquecento,” in Jane Tylus, Paul Ferrara, and Eugenio Giusti (eds.), Medusa’s Gaze: Essays on Gender, Literature, and Aesthetics in the Italian Renaissance. In Honor of Robert Rodini, West Lafayette, IN: Bordighera Press, 2004, pp. 127-143

“Fashion Writing under the Fascist Regime: An Italian Dictionary and Commentary of Fashion by Cesare Meano and Short Stories by Gianna Manzini and Alba de Cespedes,”in Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 8:1 (Winter 2004): 1-32

“Politica e ideologia: Usi del discorso di moda nell’Italia degli anni trenta,” in Athanor: Semiotica, Filosofia, Arte, Letteratura 14:7 (2003-04): 347-354

“Fashion, the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre-Fascist and Fascist Italy,” in Gender and History (November 2002): 537-59, special issue on Fashion, Dress and Material Strategies, Barbara Burman and Carole Turbin (eds.). Also in the volume of the same title published by the Basil Blackwell Company, Oxford, 2003

“Clara Sereni” entry for Jewish Women. A Comprehensive Historical Encyclopedia, CD-ROM, Paula E. Hyman, Dalia Ofer, Alice Shalvi, eds., Jerusalem: Shalvi Publishing, 2006

“Le narrative della moda. Egemonia, genere, identità,” in Robert S. Dombroski & Dino Cervigni (eds.), Annali d’Italianistica 16 (1998): 315-37

“Performing the Gendered Self in Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier and the Discourse on Fashion” in Annalecta Husserliana (2001): 237-248

“Art in Modern Italy. From the Macchiaioli to the Transavanguardia,” and “Fashion: Narration and Nation,” in An Introduction to Modern Italian Culture, Zygmunt Baranski and Rebecca West (eds.), Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001, pp. 243-263 and pp. 283-291

“Natalia Ginzburg and the Craft of Writing,” in Natalia Ginzburg, A Voice of Our Century, Angela Jeannet and Giuliana Katz (eds.), Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2000, pp. 153-178

With David Ward, “Interview with Clara Sereni,” in L’Anello che non tiene 9:1-2 (Spring-Fall, 1997): 73-83

“Languages and Borders of Disciplines at a Crossroads in Leonardo Da Vinci’s Paragone,” in The European Legacy: Towards New Paradigms 1:1 (1996): 214-19

“Dalla città invisibile alla città futura. Italo Calvino: storia, impegno, linguaggio,” in The Italianist 16 (1996): 143-60

“On Memory, Culture and Interdisciplinarity,” in Romance Languages Annual 6 (1994): 340-44

“Fashion as a Text: Talking about Femininity and Feminism,” in Feminine Feminists: Cultural Practices in Italy, Giovanna Miceli Jeffries (ed.), Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1994, pp. 171-89

“The Sign and its Alterity,” in Differentia 3-4 (1989): 329-36

“Il ritratto di Nessuno ovvero nessuno ritratto,” in Carte semiotiche 3 (1987): 63-70

About Me

Eugenia Paulicelli received her laurea in semiotics and literary studies from the University of Bari in Italy and came to the US to pursue graduate studies. After receiving her PhD from the Department of French and Italian at University of Wisconsin at Madison, she taught in the Department of Italian at Wellesley College in Massachusetts. In 1992 she joined the faculty of the Department of Romance Languages at Queens College, CUNY. She was appointed to the Graduate Center in the PhD Program of Comparative Literature in 1999 and to the Women’s Studies Certificate Program in 2002.

Her scholarship and interests are wide-ranging and interdisciplinary in nature.

She has studied the impact visual culture and new technologies have had on the word/image relationship in literature, media, film, gender and fashion. These interests have taken the form of scholarly publications in various areas:

  • the word and image debate in Renaissance Italy and beyond (her first book Parola e immagine);
  • some of these theoretical concerns will be taken up in The Fictions of Fashion (Ashgate), her systematic study, focusing on literary texts and costume books, of the role of fashion in Italian Renaissance culture and its impact abroad;
  • fashion, politics and nationalism in her book Fashion under Fascism, the first scholarly study to investigate the cultural politics of fascism and the use it made of fashion, style and the media;
  • the impact of film, media and fashion on the construction of Italian national identity and the global launch of Italian style in her forthcoming book Italian Style: Fashion and Film (1914 to the Present);
  • she has also published chapters and articles focusing on literature, women’s writing, art and the craft of writing.

In general terms, her research in the field of Fashion Studies examines how fashion as an industry and a symbolic force has been mediated across time and space. She is also interested in studying fashion in a comparative perspective that goes beyond national borders. This informs her theoretical interest in developing a framework with which to interpret fashion as it is mediated and translated through literature, film, screen media and journalism.

Such interests have resulted in a number of collaborations and projects such as:

  • co-curator of  The Fabric of Cultures. Fashion, Identity, Globalization, held at the Godwin-Ternbach museum at Queens College in the spring of 2006, and at the Museum of Craft and Folk Art in San Francisco (spring 2008);
  • curator of  Fashion+ Film: The 1960s Revisited, held at the James Gallery, CUNY Graduate Center, 2010;
  • co-curator of the New York 2010 edition of the film festival Birds of Paradise, part of the Fashion in Film Festival based at the College of the Arts Central St. Martins, London.
  • curator of the film series dedicated to the short films and documentaries of Michelangelo Antonioni at the Museum of the Moving Image in 2012 on the occasion of the centenary of his birth.

She has lectured in US, Europe and China and has been Guest Professor at The University of Stockholm in the graduate program in “Fashion Studies.” In the Spring of 2013, she will teach a series of seminars and give a public lecture entitled “Rome: Capital of Fashion and Capital of Film” as the Benjamin Meaker Visiting Professor & Colston Research Fellow at the Institute for Advanced Studies at Bristol University’s Institute.  She was awarded this professorship and Research Fellowship for her project Italian  Style: Fashion and Film (1914 to the present). She is member of the Advisory Board of the Journal WSQ (Women’s Studies Quarterly) and in the editorial board of the journal Fashion, Film and Consumption.

Video Interview with Vogue Italia on exhibition “Fashion+Film. The 1960s Revisited.” On line at:

http://www.vogue.it/en/vogue-starscelebsmodels/focus-on/2010/11/eugenia-paulicelli

contact:

The Graduate Center- City University of New York

PhD Program in Comparative Literature and Women’s Studies Certificate Program

Master of Arts in Liberal Studies
Co-Director of the Concentration in
Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center
365 Fifth Avenue, NYC

Department of European Languages and Literatures
Queens College – City University of New York
Telephone- 718-997-5659