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Eugenia Paulicelli

Eugenia Paulicelli - Professor - profile photo

Research Interests

  • Italian Literature, Culture and Film, Critical Theory, Fashion History and Theory, Gender and Women's Studies

Contact

4116.11

Affiliated Campus(es)

  • Queens College

Office Hours

By appointment

Eugenia Paulicelli is Professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women’s Studies at Queens College and The Graduate Center of the City University of New York.  She is the founder and the coordinator of the Concentration in Fashion Studies in the Master of Arts in Liberal Studies (MALS). She has received several grants and awards supporting her interdisciplinary research in word and image, fashion theory and history, fashion, literature, cinema and media, the history of women and gender, globalization and sustainability, “made in Italy” and cultural translation.

 She has also curated exhibitions on Fashion + Film: the 1960s revisited, The James Gallery at the Graduate Center (Spring 2010); The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, Globalization at the Godwin-Ternbach Museum, Queens College (Spring 2006) and The Fabric of Cultures: Systems in the Making, at The Art Center, Queens College (Fall 2017). She is the founder of The Fabric of Cultures Project, a research and pedagogic project exploring craft, design, technology, sustainability and social responsibility: (http://fabricofcultures.qwriting.qc.cuny.edu.)

She is the founder of IC-CUNY (Italian Cinema CUNY), Fall 2017 and second edition Fall 2019, film festival and educational project aimed at creating a deeper understanding of the art of Italian cinema from its origins to the present day.

Books:

  • Moda e Cinema in Italia. Dal Muto ai nostri giorni, Milan: Pearson Mondadori, 2019, forthcoming.
  • Italian Style. Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age. Bloomsbury Academic: London & New York, 2016 and paperback edition, 2017.
  • Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy. From Sprezzatura to Satire.  Ashgate: Aldershot, 2014; paperback edition, Routledge, 2016.
  • Moda e Letteratura nell’ Italia della prima modernità. Dalla Sprezzatura alla Satira, Trad. di Samantha Maruzzella, Meltemi Press: Milan, 2019: (http://www.meltemieditore.it/catalogo/moda-letteratura-nellitalia-della-modernita/)
  • Rosa Genoni: La moda è una cosa seria. Milano Expo 1906 e la Grande Guerra (Fashion is a Serious Business: The Milan World Fair of 1906 and the Great War), in English and Italian, Preface by John Davis; Afterword by Eleonora Fiorani, Milan: Deleyva Edizioni, 2015 and 2017.
  • Film, Fashion, and the 1960s, Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2017; co-editor with Louise Wallenberg); co-author of introduction and author one of the chapters.
  • 1960: Un anno in Italia. Costume, Cinema, Cultura, co-author with Antonio Maraldi, Società Editrice Il Ponte Vecchio: Cesena, 2010 (Italian and English)
  • The Fabric of Cultures. Fashion, Identity, Globalization. Co-editor with Hazel Clark, Routledge: London & New York, 2008 (introduction & author of one of the chapters)
  • Moda e Moderno. Dal Medioevo al Rinascimento. Meltemi: Rome, 2006 (Editor and author of one of the chapters)
  • Fashion under Fascism. Beyond the Black Shirt.  Berg: Oxford & New York, 2004
  • Parola e immagine.  Sentieri della scrittura in Leonardo, Marino, Foscolo, Calvino. Edizioni Cadmo: Florence, 1996, Preface by Lina Bolzoni

JOURNALS (Editor and Co-editor)

  •  Guest Editor for Journal of Modern Italian Studies, special issue dedicated to Italian Fashion: Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow, January 2015.
  • Guest editor with Elizabeth Wissinger of the special issue dedicated to Fashion of Women Studies Quarterly (WSQ), Spring 2013, The CUNY Feminist Press.

CATALOGUE and VIDEO PRODUCTIONS

Selected Articles and Book Chapters in peer-reviewed publications:

  • “Reframing History: Federico Fellini’s Rome, fashion and costume” in Film, Fashion & Consumption, Vol 8, n. 1, 2019, pp. 71-88.
  • “Venice: City of Fashion and Power in Giacomo Franco’s Habiti d’huomini et donne venetiane (ca.1650)” in Visual Typologies from the Early Modern to the Contemporary: Local Contexts and Global Practices, eds. Tara Zanardi and Lynda C. Klick, Routledge Research in Art History: 2018, 77-89.
  •  “Draping the Feminist Revolution” in Vestoj: http://vestoj.com/draping-the-feminist-revolution/
  • “Moda e Vestire,” in Emanuela Scarpellini and Stefano Cavazza, eds. Einaudi, Annale dei Consumi in Italia dall’800 ad oggi, 2018, 176-200.
  • “Fashion: The Cultural Economy of the made in Italy” in Fashion Practice, special issue dedicated to Italian Fashion, Fall 2014, 6:2 (155-174).
  • “Waiting, Suspense and the Neutral in Rossellini and Antonioni,” in Susan Petrilli, ed., Writing, Voice, Undertaking, Legas: Toronto, 2013, pp. 193-197.
  • “Veiling and Fashion in the Italian Cinquecento,” in Abito e Identita’, Cristina Giorcelli ed., Renzo e Rean Mazzone Editori: Palermo & Rome, 2012, pp. 277-298.
  • “Fashion and Translation. The Global Language of Italian Style,” in Roberto Dolci & Anthony J. Tamburri, ed., Why Study Italian? Diverse Perspectives on a Theme. The Calandra Institute: New York, 2013, pp. 43-50
  • “Engendering Faust: The Veiled Lady in Nino Oxilia’s Rapsodia Satanica, 1915-1917,” in M. Ulhirova, ed., Birds of Paradise: Costume as Cinematic Spectacle (Winner of the Most Beautiful Swiss Books of 2014), London, 2013, pp. 169-178.
  • “Rome: Eternal City of Fashion and Film,” in Hancock, Joseph, Johnson-Woods, Toni and Karaminas, Vicki, ed., Fashion in Popular Culture, Bristol: Intellect, 2013, pp.243-258.
  • “Moda e cinema durante il miracolo economico” (Fashion & cinema during the economic miracle), in Maraldi, A., Paulicelli, E., ed., 1960, un anno in Italia. Tra cultura e spettacolo, Cesena: Il Ponte Vecchio, 2010
  • “Fashion, Cultural Anxiety & Modernity in the Italian Baroque,” in Romance Notes, O. Estrada ed., Special Issue on “The Survival of Literature in the Age of Globalization” to mark 50th anniversary of the journal, 50: 1 (2010): 35-46
  • “Fashion & Futurism: Performing Dress,” in Annali d’Italianistica 27 (2009): 187-207, Federico Luisetti & Luca Somigli eds., Special Issue dedicated to Futurism
  • “Cronaca di un amore: Fashion & Italian Cinema in Michelangelo Antonioni (1949-1955),” in Graziella Parati, ed., Italian Cultural Studies, Madison: Fairleigh Dickinson Press, 2011.
  • “Mapping the World: The Political Geography of Dress in Cesare Vecellio’s Costume Books,” in The Italianist 28 (2008):  24-53; & in Global History of Fashion. A Reader, Giorgio Riello & Peter McNeill, ed., London & New York: Routledge , 2010
  • “La poetica e politica dello spazio nella scrittura di Clara Sereni,” in Athanor 11 (2008):  157-163, Special Issue Umano troppo disumano, ed., A. Ponzio & F. Leonardis
  • “Framing the Self, Staging Identity: Clothing & Style in the Films of Michelangelo Antonioni (1950-1964),” in Paulicelli & Clark, ed., The Fabric of Cultures, pp. 53-72      
  • “Fashion, Rigor & Frivolity,” p.132; “The Politics of Style,” p. 239; “Inventing the National Brand,” p. 278; “The Nationalization of the Language,” p. 282; “Great Parade of Female Forces.” p. 372, in Mario Lupano & Alessandra Vaccari, ed., Fashion at the time of Fascism. Italian Modernist Lifestyle 1922-1943. Bologna: Damiani, 2009; Italian edition of the volume Una Giornata moderna. Moda e Stili nell’Italia fascista. Bologna: Damiani, 2009
  • "Notes from NYC: Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center of the City University of New York,” in bilingual journal Zone/Moda (2009): 189-198
  • “Fashion, Identity, Globalization” & Introduction in Winter, A., The Fabric of Cultures Catalogue of the Exhibition at The Godwin–Ternbach Museum, Queens College (2008)
  • “Dress, Gender & Identity” in J. Warren, ed., Feminism & Multiculturalism. Cambridge: Cambridge Scholars Press, 2007
  • “Geografia del vestire nei libri di costume di Cesare Vecellio,” in Moda e Moderno.  Dal Medioevo al Rinascimento, Paulicelli, ed., Rome: Meltemi, 2006, pp.
  • "The Rhetoric & Politics of Appearance in the Italian Cinquecento,” in Jane Tylus, Paul Ferrara, & Eugenio Giusti, ed., Medusa’s Gaze: Essays on Gender, Literature, & Aesthetics in the Italian Renaissance. In Honor of Robert Rodini. West Lafayette, IN:  Bordighera Press, 2004, pp. 127-143
  • “Fashion Writing under the Fascist Regime:  An Italian Dictionary & Commentary of Fashion by Cesare Meano & Short Stories by Gianna Manzini & Alba de Cespedes,” Fashion Theory:   Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 8:1 (Winter 2004): 1-32 & Russian translation in Fashion Theory, Russian edition, June 2009
  • “Politica e ideologia: Usi del discorso di moda nell’Italia degli anni trenta,” in Athanor: Semiotica, Filosofia, Arte, Letteratura 14:7 (2003-04): 347-354  
  • “Fashion, the Politics of Style & National Identity in Pre-Fascist & Fascist Italy,” in Gender & History 14:2 (2002):  537-559, republished in Barbara Burman & Carole Turbin, ed., Material Strategies:  Dress & Gender in Historical Perspectives. Oxford:  Blackwell, 2003, pp. 167-189

Journalistic activities:

Courses Taught

  • Italian Fascism
  • Law and Fashion
  • Fashion, Language, Nation in post-unified Italy
  • Italian Modernities: Film, Fashion, Nation
  • New York, Fashion Capital
  • Film, Fashion and Costume Design
  • The Worth of Women: Writing & Gender in Italy
  • Clothing Cultures in Early Modern Italy & England
  • Fashion & Cinema. Technologies of Gender, Space & Affect
  • Writing Lives/Framing Life
  • Narratives of Waiting: Traveling, Displacement, Affect
  • Fashion, Power & Space
  • The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, Globalization
  • Codes & Code Breaking in Italian Renaissance Culture
  • Fashioning the Self in Social & Cultural Spaces
  • Technologies of the Self: Sexuality & Gender 
  • Inventing Italy:  Narratives of Nationhood, Identity, Otherness
  • Fashion Narratives.  Gender, Hegemony & Identity
  • Other Voices:  History & Ethics in Italian Literature

To follow her research and download some of her publications, see academia.edu. 

 

 

 

 

Eugenia Paulicelli - Professor - profile photo

Contact

4116.11

Affiliated Campus(es)

  • Queens College

Office Hours

By appointment

Books

Moda e letteratura nell’Italia della prima modernità

Moda e letteratura nell’Italia della prima modernità: Dalla sprezzatura alla satira

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

Moda e letteratura nell’Italia della prima modernità: Dalla sprezzatura alla satira, has been mentioned in the Sunday edition of the national newspaper: Il Sole 24ore (August 25,19) and Carmilla:  Estetiche del potere. Moda e significati politici nello spazio pubblico della prima modernità [carmillaonline.com] (“Aesthetics of power. Fashion and political meanings in the public space of early modernity.” Part 1.  

Carmilla:  Estetiche del potere. La risposta femminile al mito del lusso donnesco nella prima modernità [carmillaonline.com] (“Aesthetics of power. The feminine response to the myth of womanly luxury in early modernity.” Part 2. 

Published September 2019
Meltermi Press: Milano, 2019

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Eugenia Paulicelli The Fabric of Cultures: Systems in the Making

The Fabric of Cultures: Systems in the Making

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

The Fabric of Cultures: Systems in the Making is a groundbreaking multidisciplinary, pedagogic and research project that reflects on the art of making, craftsmanship and technology in a globalized world. The catalogue accompanies the exhibition at the QC Art Center of the City University of New York. The exhibition and project as a whole call attention to larger systems at play that influence the state of fashion, crafts and aesthetics constantly under development and in flux. The exhibition focuses on the NEW MADE IN ITALY within a transnational context and in conversation with other cultures, traditions and innovative technologies. Eugenia Paulicelli is professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women's Studies at Queens College and The Graduate Center, The City University of New York. She directs Italian graduate Studies at Queens College and Fashion Studies at the Graduate Center. She has published several books including Fashion under Fascism (2004) and the more recent publications Italian Style. Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age (2016 and 2017); and Film, Fashion and the 1960s (co-editor, 2017).

Published October 2017
QCArtCenter, 2017

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FASHION & FILM FROM EARLY CINEMA TO THE DIGITAL AGE

Italian Style: Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

This is the first in-depth, book-length study on fashion and Italian cinema from the silent film to the present. Italian cinema launched Italian fashion to the world. The book is the story of this launch. The creation of an Italian style and fashion as they are perceived today, especially by foreigners, was a product of the post World War II years. Before then, Parisian fashion had dominated Europe and the world. Just as fashion was part of Parisian and French national identity, the book explores the process of shaping and inventing an Italian style and fashion that ran parallel to, and at times took the lead in, the creation of an Italian national identity. In bringing to the fore these intersections, as well as emphasizing the importance of craft in cinema, fashion and costume design, the book aims to offer new visions of films by directors such as Nino Oxilia, Mario Camerini, Alessandro Blasetti, Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Luchino Visconti and Paolo Sorrentino, of film stars such as Lyda Borelli, Francesca Bertini, Pina Menichelli, Lucia Bos¨, Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, Toni Servillo and others, and the costume archives and designers who have been central to the development of Made in Italy and Italian style. 

Published September 2017
Bloomsbury Academic, 2017

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Fashion & Film from Early Cinema to the Digital Age

Film, Fashion, and the 1960s

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

Eugenia Paulicelli, Drake Stutesman and Louise Wallenberg


A fascinating look at one of the most experimental, volatile, and influential decades, Film, Fashion, and the 1960s, examines the numerous ways in which film and fashion intersected and affected identity expression during the era. From A Hard Day's Night to Breakfast at Tiffany's, from the works of Ingmar Bergman to Blake Edwards, the groundbreaking cinema of the 1960s often used fashion as the ultimate expression for urbanity, youth, and political (un)awareness. Crumbling hierarchies brought together previously separate cultural domains, and these blurred boundaries could be seen in unisex fashions and roles played out on the silver screen. As this volume amply demonstrates, fashion in films from Italy, France, England, Sweden, India, and the United States helped portray the rapidly changing faces of this cultural avant-gardism. This blending of fashion and film ultimately created a new aesthetic that continues to influence the fashion and media of today.

Published September 2017
Indiana University Press, 2017

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EUGENIA PAULICELLI Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy

Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy: From Sprezzatura to Satire

(Visual Culture in Early Modernity)

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

The first comprehensive study on the role of Italian fashion and Italian literature, this book analyzes clothing and fashion as described and represented in literary texts and costume books of the 16th and 17th centuries. It also emphasizes the centrality of Italian literature and culture for understanding modern theories of fashion and gauging impacts on codes of civility and taste.

Published June 2014
Routledge, 2014

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The Fabric of Cultures

The Fabric of Cultures

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

The Fabric of Cultures examines the impact of fashion as a manufacturing industry and as a culture industry that shapes identities of nations and cities in a cross-cultural perspective and within a global framework. The collected essays look into local histories and industries and offer, for the first time, a wide spectrum of case studies which draw on primary sources and focus on a diversity of geographical spaces and places. The uniqueness of the study lies in the fact that it offers essays from all over the world, including the global capitals of fashion such as New York along with investigations into countries less known or identifiable for fashion such as contemporary Greece and Soviet Russia. 

Published November 2008
Routledge, 2008

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Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

by Eugenia Paulicelli Professor, Comparative Literature, Professor, Liberal Studies, Professor, Women's and Gender Studies, Professor, Film Studies

 

Eugenia Paulicelli explores the dark and complex social history of Italian fashion under the Fascists and examines the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress. Paulicelli shows why they were such a concern for the Italian state under Mussolini and demonstrates how these developments impacted the global dominance of Italian fashion today. The book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana. Paulicelli is an associate professor of comparative literature at The Graduate Center and Queens College.

Published February 2004
Berg Publishers, 2004

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